Sunday, May 17, 2015
BNHS Camp to Andamans January 18-25
BNHS organises a regular annual nature camp to Andamans covering the southern part of the Island. It has been my long cherished dream to visit the beautiful & unique area & I immediately sign on & book my tickets well in advance
Wednesday, May 6, 2015
Andamans
Andaman & Nicobar Islands is a group of about 300 islands in the Bay of Bengal off the East coast of India. Geographically, it is closer to Myanmar than India. however, we in India are indeed fortunate to have this unique & extraordinarily beautiful group of islands as part of our territory.
Cultural, racial & ethnic diversity is apparent in terms of the many many indigenous tribes that populate the various islands. From the Jarawas who live in the reserve forest on South Andamans & whom I had the good fortune to catch a fleeting glance to the Onges, Sentinelese, Nicobarese & many more who are to be found inhabiting other islands, it is indeed a good study for an anthropologist. They are either of Mongoloid or Negroid origin which attests to the geologists theory that this group of islands was part of the big continent called Gondwanaland that separated many millions of years back. It is interesting to note that for these tribes, "civilisation" as we call it has not touched them and they continue to be detached from the mainstream of the world, still adhering to their ancient way of living as forest dwellers. However, their population has dwindled to alarmingly low figures hovering around 100 for the Onges & about 400 for the Jarawas! Strong efforts are required to ensure that these tribes do not go into the list of extinctions!!!
Cultural, racial & ethnic diversity is apparent in terms of the many many indigenous tribes that populate the various islands. From the Jarawas who live in the reserve forest on South Andamans & whom I had the good fortune to catch a fleeting glance to the Onges, Sentinelese, Nicobarese & many more who are to be found inhabiting other islands, it is indeed a good study for an anthropologist. They are either of Mongoloid or Negroid origin which attests to the geologists theory that this group of islands was part of the big continent called Gondwanaland that separated many millions of years back. It is interesting to note that for these tribes, "civilisation" as we call it has not touched them and they continue to be detached from the mainstream of the world, still adhering to their ancient way of living as forest dwellers. However, their population has dwindled to alarmingly low figures hovering around 100 for the Onges & about 400 for the Jarawas! Strong efforts are required to ensure that these tribes do not go into the list of extinctions!!!
From the diversity of the human race, it also boasts of magnificent bio-diversity in terms of its flora & fauna & this is obvious when you see some of the wonderful virgin rainforests on one side of the road & the azure blue sea on the other. Many of the islands are uninhabited which is really a blessing. All in all the scenes have a real picture postcard beauty about them.
My interest being mainly in the birdlife & especially the endemics (species found only in this region), I was thrilled to be able to join the BNHS camp; the bird-list for the islands is around 220 and the endemics are as many as 17. In addition, the sea has some beautiful marine life too. All in all it is a haven for both the hard-core naturalist as well as anyone with even a fleeting interest in the natural world.
Reaching the capital city of Port Blair is a fairly long journey of 4 hrs by flight from Mumbai with a long long halt at Chennai for changing flights. But of-course the rigours are commensurate with the rewards. and what a better reward than to witness the deep blue sea as the flight readies to land at the small Veer Savarkar International Airport.
As we drive through the charming town from the west to the south east end of Port Blair, it is already a precursor of the good days to come. The resort, Ripple resort is fortunately a small but cosy and well maintained resort deep inside Corbyn's Cove. Corbyn's Cove is considered a good birding site in Port Blair. The resort is surrounded by marshes making it an ideal place for naturalists to freak out with binoculars & cameras
Thursday, April 30, 2015
Port Blair & Ross Island
Some scenes from around Port Blair
after some haggling, Meena, Meghana & self hired a small motorboat for the 2 minute journey to Ross island. tjis saml island visible from the Marina was home to the British officers who built a very comfortable camp for themselves while the natives toiled in the mainland across. Later, it also faced a brutal Japanese invasion during World War II followed by a devastating earthquake. Today it is more of a memorial as most of the structures are crumbling. here are a few scenes.
The Charming Corbyn's cove area was a great motivator for Meghana & I to have an early morning wake-up for birding
Andamans is well known for being the "Kala Pani" or literally translated the black waters of India. during the British rule, Many Indian nationalists, the most famous of the being Veer Savarkar were interred in the cellular jail that was built to house something like 700 prisoners undergoing rigorous imprisonemt. Today, it is a national monument and a must visit for any tourist coming to the island. While the prisoners have long since gone, the ambiance is enough to instill an eerie feeling of an unfortunate era gone by in Indian history.The government has done a good effort in showcasing this monument to the world with good graphical presentations and a Son-et-lumiere in the evening.
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| A view of Ripple Resort cottages |
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| Statue of a freedom fighter - Probably Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose |
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| Park around the Aberdeen jetty from where you catch a boat to Ross Island |
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| Above & below - scenes from the Marine Museum |
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| Above & below - scenes from Ross Island |
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| the Commissioners House |
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| Remains of the Church |
The Charming Corbyn's cove area was a great motivator for Meghana & I to have an early morning wake-up for birding
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| Above & below - Pacific Swallows congregating. Also seen the yellow bittern & the endemic Andaman Coucal. At night heard the call of the Andaman Wood Owl, but all efforts by our entire BNHS group to trace it came to naught. Well these are some of the disappointments that birders have learnt to take in their stride! |
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| At dusk |
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| Scenes near the Marina |
Andamans is well known for being the "Kala Pani" or literally translated the black waters of India. during the British rule, Many Indian nationalists, the most famous of the being Veer Savarkar were interred in the cellular jail that was built to house something like 700 prisoners undergoing rigorous imprisonemt. Today, it is a national monument and a must visit for any tourist coming to the island. While the prisoners have long since gone, the ambiance is enough to instill an eerie feeling of an unfortunate era gone by in Indian history.The government has done a good effort in showcasing this monument to the world with good graphical presentations and a Son-et-lumiere in the evening.
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| you guessed it - the place where prisoners on death row where hung to death - 3 at a time! |
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| RI extracting oil - an excruciating, body breaking task |
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| See the many cells where prisoners underwent solitary confinement |
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| model of the layout |
Mt. Harriet National Park
An interesting ride across the city to the Northern side of Port Blair brings us to the Haddo Jetty for a ferry crossing to Mt. Harriet National Park. This amazing Park boasts a good number of endemic species & I get some of my lifers from here. It is a gradual & very enjoyable climb walk up the the Forest Rest house that has a distinct colonial air with its wood paneling & ambience
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| Not a good photo of the Oriole |
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| This flighty butterfly kept us all running after it - it is the Andaman Birdwing, one of the endemics |
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| Green Imperial Pigeon |
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| Andaman Green Pigeon, taken in harsh light & at quite a distance from the watch tower |
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| The sea from the watch tower |
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| Another view of the Andaman Green Pigeon |
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| Andaman Bulbul |
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| the more common Red-whiskered Bulbul |
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| female of the Cruiser |
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| Each to his own - left the common Myna & right the White-headed Starling - an endemic |
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| Two endemics - Left the white Headed Starling & right the Andaman Woodpecker |
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| Trying to catch em on my lens at Mt. Harriet National Park |
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| above & below, when looking for birds, could not help catch some scenary too |
Baratung Limestone Caves, Havelock Islands & Chidiaya Tapu
8 days is surely a very short time to explore the extraordinary diverse area, yet time is of essence & we head towards some of the other interesting areas of South Andamans as well as a two night stay at the famous Havelock islands
Chidiya Tapu or literally translated as "Bird Island" is another interesting place for birding especially to see the endemics. Once again it is a gently undulating area & makes for a good early morning sojourn.
a visit to Andamans is incomplete without a visit to the famous Havelock Islands. Catching the ferry from Phoenix Bay nr the Chatham Saw Mill is in itself quite a grand affair - almost feels like boarding a flight. You have to check in an hour in advance with your boarding pass A swanky vessel complete with an on-board counter of coffee & snacks ensures that you enjoy the two-hour ride in luxury unlike the rather smelly diesel polluting ferries for other destinations. However, out at the choppy sea, this boat really rocks & you need to hold on if you do not want to be thrown down.
Some good birding in Havelock too.
the famous Radhanagari beach is crescent shaped with forests all around. Beaches do have a great draw for most tourists to chill out & sure enough after landing at the jetty at Havelock we were taken directly to this beach. Entry is full of stalls selling various various bric-a-brac & of course the omnipresent Chai (tea)
An increasingly popular destination for Andaman visitors, is the limestone caves at Baratung islands. The journey itself is quite memorable. First and early morning rise at 3 am, tea at 3.15 am and on our way at 3.30 a.m. That surely tells you something of the exciting journey. After a long drive in the darkness through some beautiful forests we reach a point at 5.40 am where our vehicle joins a convoy of some 20 other with a police escort in front & the rear. The reason - we will be passing the Jarawa Reserve Forest. the convoy starts at 6 am sharp and there will be no stopping during this period. Strict instructions by our camp leaders - "Please remember that the Jarawas are people like us, so do not treat them as objects for viewing and photographing. If a Jarawa sees you taking a photograph or looking through any lens, there is every likelihood he will just come and grab your equipment & walk away with it and there is nothing we can do." Sound advice indeed! It got us all scampering to pack our equipment and stock it away in safety. We did get to view a few Jarawas with their faces painted white & bare bodies. the drive through some of the dense forests was a wonderful experience.
The convoy ends at Middle Street where we take a puffing, crowded ferry for a five-minute drive to Baratung & again a smaller boat to reach our destination through some beautiful mangroves. And a further 1.2 kms walk through forests and fields till we reach the Limestone caves.
Chidiya Tapu or literally translated as "Bird Island" is another interesting place for birding especially to see the endemics. Once again it is a gently undulating area & makes for a good early morning sojourn.
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| pair of Long-tailed Parakeets - again endemic to the Andaman& Nicobar Islands |
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| its raining endemics! - Spot-Breasted Woodpecker |
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| Try to figure out the bird with the berry in its bill - Vernal Hanging Parrot - the only Parrot found in India (others are Parakeets). This bird can also be seen in the NE Himalayas, the Eastern & Western Ghats of India (the hilly range on Peninsualar India's Eastern &Western Coast) |
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| another view of my favorite Long-tailed Parakeet |
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| this charming bird is the Andaman Woodpecker |
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| This is the swanky ride |
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| Andaman serpent Eagle right in the resort |
Some good birding in Havelock too.
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| Flock of Blackbirds |
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| the resort - Beach No. 5. good ambiance right on the sea shore, but maintenance & customer service need to be improved |
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| After a two km trek through some beautiful forests & an adrenaline pumping 500 mts walk through the mangroves with the rising tide we come to elephant beach to view the marine life. This was rather a short 10 min ride in glass-bottomed boats. would have appreciated more of it to see the beautiful marine life |
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| View of the resort grounds with the sea beyond |
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| Some creativity in the sand |
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| Sunset at Radhanagari |
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| Burrowing by Hermit Crabs |
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| One of the 7 billion Homo Sapiens that overpopulate this planet. At Radhanagari beach, trying to gel with the background - Ha ha |
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| more views of the beach |
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| Andaman Teal at a wetland near Port Blair |
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| Chestnut-headed Beeaters |
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| Above & below - Mud volcano at Baratung |
An increasingly popular destination for Andaman visitors, is the limestone caves at Baratung islands. The journey itself is quite memorable. First and early morning rise at 3 am, tea at 3.15 am and on our way at 3.30 a.m. That surely tells you something of the exciting journey. After a long drive in the darkness through some beautiful forests we reach a point at 5.40 am where our vehicle joins a convoy of some 20 other with a police escort in front & the rear. The reason - we will be passing the Jarawa Reserve Forest. the convoy starts at 6 am sharp and there will be no stopping during this period. Strict instructions by our camp leaders - "Please remember that the Jarawas are people like us, so do not treat them as objects for viewing and photographing. If a Jarawa sees you taking a photograph or looking through any lens, there is every likelihood he will just come and grab your equipment & walk away with it and there is nothing we can do." Sound advice indeed! It got us all scampering to pack our equipment and stock it away in safety. We did get to view a few Jarawas with their faces painted white & bare bodies. the drive through some of the dense forests was a wonderful experience.
The convoy ends at Middle Street where we take a puffing, crowded ferry for a five-minute drive to Baratung & again a smaller boat to reach our destination through some beautiful mangroves. And a further 1.2 kms walk through forests and fields till we reach the Limestone caves.
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| Above & below - views of the Limestone caves |
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